A practical, contractor-minded guide for patios, walkways, and entertaining areas
In Boerne and the greater San Antonio area, a great-looking paver patio isn’t hard to find—what’s harder is finding one that still looks great after multiple seasons of heat, heavy rain bursts, and shifting soils. A long-lasting installation comes down to what you don’t see: base thickness, compaction, drainage planning, and edge restraint. This guide breaks down what matters most so you can plan your project with confidence and avoid the common “wavy pavers” problem.
Why pavers shift (and why it happens more in our area)
Pavers don’t fail because the pavers are “bad.” They fail because the layers beneath them weren’t built for the site conditions. Around Boerne, Stone Oak, Fair Oaks Ranch, and The Dominion, you’ll often see a mix of rocky limestone, thin topsoil, and areas with clay content that expands and contracts. Add runoff from rooflines and sloped yards, and the base can settle unevenly unless it’s properly constructed and drained.
The most common causes of movement include:
- Insufficient compacted base (or base compacted in lifts that are too thick)
- Poor drainage that keeps the subgrade wet after storms
- Missing or weak edge restraint that allows lateral “creep” over time
- Too much bedding sand used as “extra base”
- No plan for downspouts or slopes, leading to erosion and washout
What a “proper” paver base looks like (the parts that prevent settling)
A reliable interlocking paver system is a layered structure. Industry guidance for pedestrian patios and walkways commonly starts with a minimum of about 4 inches of compacted aggregate base over well-drained soils, with thicker bases recommended when soils are weaker, wetter, or traffic is heavier. For driveways, base thickness typically increases. A key point: these thicknesses refer to compacted depth, not loose material. (masonryandhardscapes.org)
Pro tip: If a contractor can’t clearly explain their compaction method (equipment, lifts, and target density), that’s a red flag. Compaction of the subgrade and base is repeatedly emphasized in paver installation guidance because it directly impacts long-term performance. (masonryandhardscapes.org)
Breakdown: Patio vs. driveway vs. pool deck (why the build changes)
“Pavers installation” is not one-size-fits-all. The right build depends on load, slope, and water behavior:
- Patios & walkways: prioritize flatness, drainage away from the home, and strong edge restraint.
- Driveways: need thicker base and the correct paver thickness for vehicle loads.
- Pool decks: focus on slip resistance, drainage, and keeping joint sand from washing out.
| Application | Common Base Range (Compacted) | Notes That Prevent Shifting |
|---|---|---|
| Walkway / Patio | ~4–6 inches | Best on well-drained soils; increase thickness for soft subgrade or runoff zones |
| Residential Driveway | ~6–8 inches | Thicker base + correct paver thickness helps resist rutting and edge spread |
| Commercial / Heavier Loads | Often 8+ inches (site-specific) | Engineering/design inputs matter—especially with poor drainage or frequent loads |
Note: Base thickness varies by soil, drainage, and intended traffic; ranges shown align with widely cited interlocking pavement guidance. (masonryandhardscapes.org)
Quick “Did you know?” facts (that can save a project)
Bedding sand is not structural. It’s a thin leveling layer—using it to “make up” for base depth increases the odds of movement.
Edge restraint is non-negotiable. It prevents the slow outward drift that opens joints and makes pavers look uneven.
Drainage beats “more base” in many cases. If water sits under the system, even a thick base can settle over time.
Step-by-step: A smart pavers installation plan (homeowner-friendly)
1) Start with layout, slope, and water control
Decide where water should go before excavation begins. In Hill Country lots, it’s common to need gentle grading away from foundations and to manage downspouts so they don’t dump directly onto the patio edge.
2) Excavate to the correct depth (not “until it looks right”)
Excavation depth should account for paver thickness + bedding layer + compacted base. If the plan calls for more base in soft spots or along runoff paths, that depth needs to be excavated—not “cheated” with sand.
3) Compact the subgrade and install separation fabric when needed
If the soil is fine, unstable, or mixed fill, a geotextile separation layer can reduce migration of fines into the base and help slow settling. (masonryandhardscapes.org)
4) Build the aggregate base in compacted lifts
Base should be placed in lifts and compacted thoroughly. Proper lift thickness depends on the compaction equipment, but the idea is consistent: compact in layers so you don’t trap loose material below. (masonryandhardscapes.org)
5) Screed bedding sand and set pavers with consistent joint spacing
The bedding layer is for minor leveling—not structural fill. After pavers are laid, they’re compacted to seat them evenly.
6) Install edge restraint + joint sand (polymeric when appropriate)
Strong edge restraint locks the field in place. Joint sand completes interlock; polymeric sand can help reduce washout and weeds in many installations (especially where runoff is strong), but it must be installed correctly for best results.
Planning tip: Estimating material quantities is one of the easiest places to overspend. Use Blades of Glory’s calculators to get a solid starting point:
- Gravel Calculator (for base material estimates)
- Mulch Calculator (for nearby beds and finishing touches)
- Concrete Calculator (for edging, footings, or adjacent slabs)
If you’re still in the planning stage, pairing your paver project with a professional layout can prevent expensive rework later. Explore our landscape design services to map out patios, walkways, planting beds, and drainage as one cohesive plan.
Local angle: Boerne water rules, irrigation, and smart planting around hardscapes
In Boerne, outdoor watering can be restricted by the City’s conservation program, and there are year-round measures that limit watering during mid-day hours. That makes it even more important to design landscapes that look great with efficient irrigation and drought-tolerant planting. (ci.boerne.tx.us)
A few practical ways homeowners and property managers keep landscapes thriving alongside new pavers:
- Use drip irrigation in beds near patios to reduce overspray and water waste.
- Consider Texas native plants for lower-maintenance color and resilience in heat.
- Confirm backflow requirements when irrigation is installed or modified; Boerne has an official backflow prevention program tied to TCEQ requirements. (ci.boerne.tx.us)
If you’re building a new patio and refreshing the landscape around it, our irrigation services can help you water more efficiently, and our Texas native plants page is a helpful starting point for drought-tolerant options that fit Hill Country style.
Want a paver patio that stays flat, drains correctly, and looks finished?
Blades of Glory Landscaping builds patios, walkways, and outdoor living spaces across Boerne, San Antonio, Stone Oak, and surrounding communities—with the prep work done right so your investment lasts.
Request a Paver Installation Quote
Looking to bundle services? See our outdoor living spaces and hardscaping services.
FAQ: Pavers installation in Boerne & San Antonio area
How deep should we excavate for a paver patio?
It depends on paver thickness, bedding layer, and the compacted base depth needed for your soil and drainage conditions. Many patios start with a compacted base in the 4–6 inch range, but sites with soft subgrade, poor drainage, or heavy use may require more. (masonryandhardscapes.org)
What’s the most common reason pavers become uneven?
Inadequate base preparation—either not enough base, poor compaction, or drainage issues that keep the subgrade wet. These problems show up as low spots, rocking pavers, and joint washout.
Do I need a permit for a paver patio in Boerne?
Many patios don’t require the same permits as roofed structures, but requirements can vary based on scope, grading changes, drainage impacts, or if you’re tying into utilities. If your project involves irrigation changes, it’s also important to follow Texas irrigation rules and any city requirements. (tceq.texas.gov)
Can you install pavers and also update my irrigation and lighting?
Yes—many homeowners choose to bundle hardscaping with irrigation updates (to protect new patios from overspray and runoff) and outdoor lighting for safety and evening use.
What’s better for joints: regular sand or polymeric sand?
Regular joint sand is common and economical, while polymeric sand can help reduce weed growth and washout in many settings (especially where runoff is strong). The best choice depends on drainage, slope, and how the area will be maintained.
Glossary (helpful terms for planning a paver project)
Edge restraint
A rigid border (often plastic, aluminum, or concrete) that prevents pavers from spreading outward over time.
Compacted base
The dense aggregate layer beneath pavers that provides structural support; it must be installed and compacted in lifts.
Bedding sand
A thin, screeded leveling layer (not a structural layer) that helps set pavers to final grade.
Geotextile (separation fabric)
A fabric layer used to separate native soil from base material, helping reduce mixing and long-term settling on certain sites.
Backflow prevention
A device or assembly that helps prevent contaminated water from flowing backward into the potable water supply—commonly relevant for irrigation systems. (ci.boerne.tx.us)
